Shrimp News !!!
Benefits of leaf litter in shrimp tanks.
Fri, 17th April, 2015
November 04 2014
The following was written by Julie Lightfoot. Check out her Facebook page, Shrimp and Scape.
Many of the shrimp we keep originate from mountain streams in South East Asia. These streams are often flanked by overhanging trees and bushes, so the shrimp’s natural environment contains lots of fallen leaf litter and plant material, which eventually settles on the stream bed. It is in these areas they are most concentrated. When large amounts of tannin rich plant material end up in a slow flowing river, they create a type of habitat commonly referred to as blackwater. As Part of the natural biodegrading process, these leaves quickly become covered in micro-organisms or biofilm (sometimes visible as a faint white slime film) and it’s this layer that the shrimp love to graze on. These biofilms are hugely beneficial to adult and especially baby shrimp as they help provide a balanced diet and being a complex mix of good bacteria, proteins and vitamins, they are extremely important in helping to build the shrimp’s immune system.
Dried leaves etc offer a surface that biofilm can quickly populate and thrive on.
When they soften and start to break down, the shrimp will eat the leaves etc right down to the skeleton, this provides a nutritional food source.
Benefits:
As well as providing biofilm and natural food, dried leaves also contain tannins and humic acids which leach into the water having beneficial properties including anti-bacterial and anti-fungal. They can help promote good health and color, stimulate breeding, reduce stress and aid in the molting process. Tannins are what give blackwater rivers their characteristic tea-color appearance and low pH value. Although the leaves will lower pH of your tank, you would need to use more than the standard dosage quantities recommend for shrimp tanks to have any real effect.
There are benefits to using more than one type of dried leaf in your tank at the same time. Some leaves provide different beneficial properties than others, they break down at different rates and so there will be a constant source of natural food in your tank and you are also providing a varied diet for your shrimp.
Why Dried Leaves?
It is better to use dried leaves that have fallen naturally from a tree. The reason for this is that these leaves will be depleted of chlorophyll, sugars, sap and etc through a natural process and as such will not decompose in the tank and foul the water, as fresh or wind fallen leaves might. Aslo the beneficial properties of the leaf litter comes from the tannins and humic acids that are naturally present in ‘dead’ leaves.
Selecting Leaves:
The main consideration when adding leaves to your tank is to ensure they are free from pollutants, pesticides, and/or harmful chemicals. Therefore leaves that have been specially prepared for aquatic use are best, as these are harvested well away from towns or city areas.
The following five paragraphs contain more information on the benefits of specific dried leaves.
Indian Almond Leaves / Catappa Leaves
Benefits of using IAL / Catappa leaves in your shrimp tank:
Creates a natural water environment for freshwater shrimp
Enhances the natural color
Provides biofilm grazing
Aids the molting process, helping reduce mortality rate during this stage
Contains acids and tannins which have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties, preventing bacteria and diseases
Stimulates breeding
Relieves stress
Mildly reduces pH
Indian Almond Leaves / Catappa Leaves have also long been used in home remedies as well as in aquariums. They are used to treat a variety of ailments in a number of countries around the world, included scabies and leprosy in India, internal parasites in the Philippines and colic in South America. So they are widely recognized as possessing excellent medicinal properties.
Mulberry Leaves
Benefits of using Mulberry leaves in your shrimp tank:
Excellent source of natural food for shrimp
High in carbohydrate, fiber, vitamins and minerals
Helps to maintain shrimp exoskeleton
Aids the molting process
Mulberry leaves are essentially a food source to be fed as part of a varied diet. They soften quickly and will be devoured within a couple days.
Guava Leaves
Benefits of using Guava leaves in your shrimp tank:
Have anti-bacterial properties
Help to prevent diseases such as Vibrio and Luminous Bacteria
Great source of food for shrimp
Guava leaves soften much more slowly than other dried leaves and do not break down as quickly, therefore these leaves will not require replacing/removing as frequently.
Banana Leaves
Benefits of using Banana leaves in your shrimp tank:
Reduces the risk of bacterial and fungal outbreaks
Provides great natural cover
Provides biofilm grazing
Stimulates breeding
Relieves stress
Mildly reduces pH
Banana leaves have been used by tropical fish breeders in Asia to great effect for many years. However, they have only more recently become popular for aquatic use in Europe, the UK and USA.
Indian Almond Bark / Catappa Bark
Benefits of using IAL Bark / Catappa Bark in your shrimp tank:
Creates a natural water environment for freshwater shrimp
Enhances the natural color
Aids the molting process, greatly reducing mortality rate during this stage
Contains acids and tannins which have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties preventing bacteria and diseases
Stimulates breeding
Relieves stress
Reduces pH
IAL / Catappa Bark has strong healing and anti-bacterial properties and is used in many countries for medicinal purposes, such as in Mexico for asthma, Indonesia for rheumatic pain and Brazil as a folk remedy for fever and dysentery.
IAL/ Catappa Bark is more concentrated than the leaves and is a greater product for producing blackwater extract.
Alder Cones
Benefits of using Alder Cones in your shrimp tank:
Creates a natural water environment for freshwater shrimp
Provides biofilm grazing
Contains acids and tannins which have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties
Stimulates breeding
Relieves stress
Reduces pH
Alder cones break down at a slower rate than leaves so will not require replacing / removing as frequently.
Alder cones are widely available in many countries. If you collect your own, ensure they are collected away from pollutants and pesticides etc. Otherwise you should buy from a trusted seller.
There are a variety of other dried leaves that shrimp keepers can use to similar effect to those mentioned, such as fallen hardwood leaves like Oak or Ash or dried fruit leaves such as peach as a food source.
Again, the main consideration when adding dried leaves to your tank is to ensure they are free from pollutants, pesticides and/or harmful chemicals.
Most of the products mentioned above are available from the Tantora Shrimp Series range of natural food and water conditioning products.
This range of products offer a natural solution for shrimp keeping. Products are grown and harvested away from town or city areas so therefore free from pollutants.
These leaves are carefully selected, harvested and prepared for safe use in your shrimp tank.
The following was written by Julie Lightfoot. Check out her Facebook page, Shrimp and Scape.
Many of the shrimp we keep originate from mountain streams in South East Asia. These streams are often flanked by overhanging trees and bushes, so the shrimp’s natural environment contains lots of fallen leaf litter and plant material, which eventually settles on the stream bed. It is in these areas they are most concentrated. When large amounts of tannin rich plant material end up in a slow flowing river, they create a type of habitat commonly referred to as blackwater. As Part of the natural biodegrading process, these leaves quickly become covered in micro-organisms or biofilm (sometimes visible as a faint white slime film) and it’s this layer that the shrimp love to graze on. These biofilms are hugely beneficial to adult and especially baby shrimp as they help provide a balanced diet and being a complex mix of good bacteria, proteins and vitamins, they are extremely important in helping to build the shrimp’s immune system.
Dried leaves etc offer a surface that biofilm can quickly populate and thrive on.
When they soften and start to break down, the shrimp will eat the leaves etc right down to the skeleton, this provides a nutritional food source.
Benefits:
As well as providing biofilm and natural food, dried leaves also contain tannins and humic acids which leach into the water having beneficial properties including anti-bacterial and anti-fungal. They can help promote good health and color, stimulate breeding, reduce stress and aid in the molting process. Tannins are what give blackwater rivers their characteristic tea-color appearance and low pH value. Although the leaves will lower pH of your tank, you would need to use more than the standard dosage quantities recommend for shrimp tanks to have any real effect.
There are benefits to using more than one type of dried leaf in your tank at the same time. Some leaves provide different beneficial properties than others, they break down at different rates and so there will be a constant source of natural food in your tank and you are also providing a varied diet for your shrimp.
Why Dried Leaves?
It is better to use dried leaves that have fallen naturally from a tree. The reason for this is that these leaves will be depleted of chlorophyll, sugars, sap and etc through a natural process and as such will not decompose in the tank and foul the water, as fresh or wind fallen leaves might. Aslo the beneficial properties of the leaf litter comes from the tannins and humic acids that are naturally present in ‘dead’ leaves.
Selecting Leaves:
The main consideration when adding leaves to your tank is to ensure they are free from pollutants, pesticides, and/or harmful chemicals. Therefore leaves that have been specially prepared for aquatic use are best, as these are harvested well away from towns or city areas.
The following five paragraphs contain more information on the benefits of specific dried leaves.
Indian Almond Leaves / Catappa Leaves
Benefits of using IAL / Catappa leaves in your shrimp tank:
Creates a natural water environment for freshwater shrimp
Enhances the natural color
Provides biofilm grazing
Aids the molting process, helping reduce mortality rate during this stage
Contains acids and tannins which have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties, preventing bacteria and diseases
Stimulates breeding
Relieves stress
Mildly reduces pH
Indian Almond Leaves / Catappa Leaves have also long been used in home remedies as well as in aquariums. They are used to treat a variety of ailments in a number of countries around the world, included scabies and leprosy in India, internal parasites in the Philippines and colic in South America. So they are widely recognized as possessing excellent medicinal properties.
Mulberry Leaves
Benefits of using Mulberry leaves in your shrimp tank:
Excellent source of natural food for shrimp
High in carbohydrate, fiber, vitamins and minerals
Helps to maintain shrimp exoskeleton
Aids the molting process
Mulberry leaves are essentially a food source to be fed as part of a varied diet. They soften quickly and will be devoured within a couple days.
Guava Leaves
Benefits of using Guava leaves in your shrimp tank:
Have anti-bacterial properties
Help to prevent diseases such as Vibrio and Luminous Bacteria
Great source of food for shrimp
Guava leaves soften much more slowly than other dried leaves and do not break down as quickly, therefore these leaves will not require replacing/removing as frequently.
Banana Leaves
Benefits of using Banana leaves in your shrimp tank:
Reduces the risk of bacterial and fungal outbreaks
Provides great natural cover
Provides biofilm grazing
Stimulates breeding
Relieves stress
Mildly reduces pH
Banana leaves have been used by tropical fish breeders in Asia to great effect for many years. However, they have only more recently become popular for aquatic use in Europe, the UK and USA.
Indian Almond Bark / Catappa Bark
Benefits of using IAL Bark / Catappa Bark in your shrimp tank:
Creates a natural water environment for freshwater shrimp
Enhances the natural color
Aids the molting process, greatly reducing mortality rate during this stage
Contains acids and tannins which have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties preventing bacteria and diseases
Stimulates breeding
Relieves stress
Reduces pH
IAL / Catappa Bark has strong healing and anti-bacterial properties and is used in many countries for medicinal purposes, such as in Mexico for asthma, Indonesia for rheumatic pain and Brazil as a folk remedy for fever and dysentery.
IAL/ Catappa Bark is more concentrated than the leaves and is a greater product for producing blackwater extract.
Alder Cones
Benefits of using Alder Cones in your shrimp tank:
Creates a natural water environment for freshwater shrimp
Provides biofilm grazing
Contains acids and tannins which have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties
Stimulates breeding
Relieves stress
Reduces pH
Alder cones break down at a slower rate than leaves so will not require replacing / removing as frequently.
Alder cones are widely available in many countries. If you collect your own, ensure they are collected away from pollutants and pesticides etc. Otherwise you should buy from a trusted seller.
There are a variety of other dried leaves that shrimp keepers can use to similar effect to those mentioned, such as fallen hardwood leaves like Oak or Ash or dried fruit leaves such as peach as a food source.
Again, the main consideration when adding dried leaves to your tank is to ensure they are free from pollutants, pesticides and/or harmful chemicals.
Most of the products mentioned above are available from the Tantora Shrimp Series range of natural food and water conditioning products.
This range of products offer a natural solution for shrimp keeping. Products are grown and harvested away from town or city areas so therefore free from pollutants.
These leaves are carefully selected, harvested and prepared for safe use in your shrimp tank.
Shrimp Water Parameters
Fri, 17th April, 2015
Shrimp Water Parameters
February 13 2015
thanks to http://www.shrimpkeeping.com/
Crystal Black Shrimp Black Bee <br> PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Crystal Black Shrimp Black Bee
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Crystal Red Shrimp/Red Bee PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Crystal Red Shrimp Red Bee
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Pure Red Line PH: 5.4 - 6.0 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 80 - 160 Water temp: 21 - 23
Pure Red Line
PH: 5.4–6.0, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 80–160, Water temp: 70-73F
Snow White/Golden Bee PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Snow White Golden Bee
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Super Red Crystal PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Super Red Crystal
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
White Bee PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
White Bee
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Pinto Bee PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Pinto Bee
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Blue Bolt/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Blue Bolt Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Blue Jelly/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Blue Jelly Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
King Kong/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
King Kong Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Panda/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Panda Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Wine Red/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Wine Red Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Red Ruby/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Red Ruby Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Incredible Hulk/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Incredible Hulk Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Fancy Tiger PH: 7.0 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Fancy Tiger
PH: 7.0–7.4, KH: 4-8, GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Black Tiger PH: 7.2 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Black Tiger
PH: 7.2–7.4, KH: 4–8, GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Blue Tiger PH: 7.2 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Blue Tiger
PH: 7.2–7.4, KH: 4–8,GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Red Tiger PH: 7.0 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Red Tiger
PH: 7.0–7.4, KH: 4–8, GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Tiger Shrimp PH: 7.0 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Tiger Shrimp
PH: 7.0–7.4, KH: 4–8, GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Super Tiger PH: 7.0 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Super Tiger
PH: 7.0–7.4, KH: 4–8, GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Snowball/White Pearl PH: 6.2 - 6.8 KH: 2 - 5 GH: 4 - 8 TDS: 100 - 200 Water temp: 20 - 25
Snowball White Pearl
PH: 6.2–6.8, KH: 2–5 GH: 4–8
TDS: 100–200, Water temp: 69-74
Blue Pearl PH: 6.2 - 6.8 KH: 2 - 5 GH: 4 - 8 TDS: 100 - 200 Water temp: 20 - 25
Blue Pearl
PH: 6.2–6.8, KH: 2–5, GH: 4–8
TDS: 100–200, Water temp: 69-74F
Cherry Shrimp PH: 6.4 - 7.6 KH: 0 - 10 GH: 4 - 14 TDS: 80 - 200 Water temp: 18 - 23
Cherry Shrimp
PH: 6.4–7.6, KH: 0–10, GH: 4–14
TDS: 80 – 200 Water temp: 69-74F
Yellow Shrimp/Yellow Fire PH: 6.4 - 7.6 KH: 0 - 10 GH: 4 - 14 TDS: 80 - 200 Water temp: 18 - 23
Yellow Shrimp Yellow Fire
PH: 6.4–7.6, KH: 0–10, GH: 4–14
TDS: 80–200, Water temp: 69-74F
Rili Shrimp PH: 6.4 - 7.6 KH: 0 - 10 GH: 4 - 14 TDS: 80 - 200 Water temp: 18 - 23
Rili Shrimp
PH: 6.4–7.6, KH: 0–10, GH: 4–14
TDS: 80–200, Water temp: 69-74F
Orange Rili PH: 6.4 - 7.6 KH: 0 - 10 GH: 4 - 14 TDS: 80 - 200 Water temp: 18 - 23
Orange Rili
PH: 6.4–7.6, KH: 0–10, GH: 4–14
TDS: 80–200, Water temp: 69-74F
Blue Rili PH: 6.4 - 7.6 KH: 0 - 10 GH: 4 - 14 TDS: 80 - 200 Water temp: 18 - 23
Blue Rili
PH: 6.4–7.6, KH: 0–10, GH: 4–14
TDS: 80–200, Water temp: 69-74F
February 13 2015
thanks to http://www.shrimpkeeping.com/
Crystal Black Shrimp Black Bee <br> PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Crystal Black Shrimp Black Bee
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Crystal Red Shrimp/Red Bee PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Crystal Red Shrimp Red Bee
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Pure Red Line PH: 5.4 - 6.0 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 80 - 160 Water temp: 21 - 23
Pure Red Line
PH: 5.4–6.0, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 80–160, Water temp: 70-73F
Snow White/Golden Bee PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Snow White Golden Bee
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Super Red Crystal PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Super Red Crystal
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
White Bee PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
White Bee
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Pinto Bee PH: 6.2 - 6.6 KH: 0 - 2 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Pinto Bee
PH: 6.2–6.6, KH: 0–2, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Blue Bolt/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Blue Bolt Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Blue Jelly/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Blue Jelly Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
King Kong/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
King Kong Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Panda/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Panda Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Wine Red/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Wine Red Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Red Ruby/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Red Ruby Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Incredible Hulk/Taiwan Bee PH: 5.6 - 6.2 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 4 - 6 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 21 - 23
Incredible Hulk Taiwan Bee
PH: 5.6–6.2, KH: 0–1, GH: 4–6
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 70-73F
Fancy Tiger PH: 7.0 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Fancy Tiger
PH: 7.0–7.4, KH: 4-8, GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Black Tiger PH: 7.2 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Black Tiger
PH: 7.2–7.4, KH: 4–8, GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Blue Tiger PH: 7.2 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Blue Tiger
PH: 7.2–7.4, KH: 4–8,GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Red Tiger PH: 7.0 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Red Tiger
PH: 7.0–7.4, KH: 4–8, GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Tiger Shrimp PH: 7.0 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Tiger Shrimp
PH: 7.0–7.4, KH: 4–8, GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Super Tiger PH: 7.0 - 7.4 KH: 4 - 8 GH: 6 - 10 TDS: 100 - 180 Water temp: 18 - 23
Super Tiger
PH: 7.0–7.4, KH: 4–8, GH: 6–10
TDS: 100–180, Water temp: 68-73F
Snowball/White Pearl PH: 6.2 - 6.8 KH: 2 - 5 GH: 4 - 8 TDS: 100 - 200 Water temp: 20 - 25
Snowball White Pearl
PH: 6.2–6.8, KH: 2–5 GH: 4–8
TDS: 100–200, Water temp: 69-74
Blue Pearl PH: 6.2 - 6.8 KH: 2 - 5 GH: 4 - 8 TDS: 100 - 200 Water temp: 20 - 25
Blue Pearl
PH: 6.2–6.8, KH: 2–5, GH: 4–8
TDS: 100–200, Water temp: 69-74F
Cherry Shrimp PH: 6.4 - 7.6 KH: 0 - 10 GH: 4 - 14 TDS: 80 - 200 Water temp: 18 - 23
Cherry Shrimp
PH: 6.4–7.6, KH: 0–10, GH: 4–14
TDS: 80 – 200 Water temp: 69-74F
Yellow Shrimp/Yellow Fire PH: 6.4 - 7.6 KH: 0 - 10 GH: 4 - 14 TDS: 80 - 200 Water temp: 18 - 23
Yellow Shrimp Yellow Fire
PH: 6.4–7.6, KH: 0–10, GH: 4–14
TDS: 80–200, Water temp: 69-74F
Rili Shrimp PH: 6.4 - 7.6 KH: 0 - 10 GH: 4 - 14 TDS: 80 - 200 Water temp: 18 - 23
Rili Shrimp
PH: 6.4–7.6, KH: 0–10, GH: 4–14
TDS: 80–200, Water temp: 69-74F
Orange Rili PH: 6.4 - 7.6 KH: 0 - 10 GH: 4 - 14 TDS: 80 - 200 Water temp: 18 - 23
Orange Rili
PH: 6.4–7.6, KH: 0–10, GH: 4–14
TDS: 80–200, Water temp: 69-74F
Blue Rili PH: 6.4 - 7.6 KH: 0 - 10 GH: 4 - 14 TDS: 80 - 200 Water temp: 18 - 23
Blue Rili
PH: 6.4–7.6, KH: 0–10, GH: 4–14
TDS: 80–200, Water temp: 69-74F
Ecology of the dirted tank. how to keep balance.
Fri, 17th April, 2015
What, throw mud in your tanks are you crazy Hoyt? Take a look out in the wilderness. Where do you find 100% pure gravel bottomed waters? Nowhere!
Why is dirt important in my tank? Why not just the fish poop and have the plants grow?
Well, three main reasons.
Plants do not do well just rooted in plain, old aquarium gravel. The chemical and biological conditions established and sustained by soil use provide natural nutrient availability.
dirt sucks up nitrates and keeps a balanced tank! Thus intensifying the nitrogen cycle for a long term setup.
Peat is defined as a highly organic soil, advantages of it in a aquarium...lowers ph for amazon originated fish such as, angelfish, cories, tetras.
==========================================================================
How do I avoid algae on my plants with such a high nutrient substrate? A.K.A Balance in the planted tank.
Create a eco system!
Plant your newly dirted tank right away so the plants can combat the high nutrient source.
In nature there are rocks, plants, fish, soil, and lesser forms of plants, duckweed, moss, algae and sunlight.
Nature is a constant battle between plants.....for example.....buckthorn tries to choke out plants and stop growth on wanted plants.....picture buckthorn as algae...it tries to choke out all plants and stop their photosynthesis.....unless you control it.....that”s why rocks and drift wood are so importantin aquariums.
If you put a hardscape of rocks and driftwood in your tank you will give algae a place to grow if you leave it their and let it grow all over the rocks and driftwood it will be content....wont grow on the plants cause It already has somewhere to grow!
Duckweed and moss are attractive plants that can also combat algae because they eat the same lesser nutrients.
From my experience no co2 is needed even though I have high lights....the other day I was trimming my plants in the 29 gallon and I saw something amazing....my plants were pearling.....shooting nutrient bubbles back into the water because they had so much nutrients....
Why is dirt important in my tank? Why not just the fish poop and have the plants grow?
Well, three main reasons.
Plants do not do well just rooted in plain, old aquarium gravel. The chemical and biological conditions established and sustained by soil use provide natural nutrient availability.
dirt sucks up nitrates and keeps a balanced tank! Thus intensifying the nitrogen cycle for a long term setup.
Peat is defined as a highly organic soil, advantages of it in a aquarium...lowers ph for amazon originated fish such as, angelfish, cories, tetras.
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How do I avoid algae on my plants with such a high nutrient substrate? A.K.A Balance in the planted tank.
Create a eco system!
Plant your newly dirted tank right away so the plants can combat the high nutrient source.
In nature there are rocks, plants, fish, soil, and lesser forms of plants, duckweed, moss, algae and sunlight.
Nature is a constant battle between plants.....for example.....buckthorn tries to choke out plants and stop growth on wanted plants.....picture buckthorn as algae...it tries to choke out all plants and stop their photosynthesis.....unless you control it.....that”s why rocks and drift wood are so importantin aquariums.
If you put a hardscape of rocks and driftwood in your tank you will give algae a place to grow if you leave it their and let it grow all over the rocks and driftwood it will be content....wont grow on the plants cause It already has somewhere to grow!
Duckweed and moss are attractive plants that can also combat algae because they eat the same lesser nutrients.
From my experience no co2 is needed even though I have high lights....the other day I was trimming my plants in the 29 gallon and I saw something amazing....my plants were pearling.....shooting nutrient bubbles back into the water because they had so much nutrients....